What gauge means
Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit in a measured span, usually 4 inches or 10 cm. A pattern that says "20 sts and 28 rows = 4 in" in stockinette was designed for that fabric. UK patterns call it tension.
Fewer stitches per 4 inches means bigger stitches, so the same stitch count makes a wider piece. More stitches per 4 inches makes it narrower.
How to measure your gauge
- Cast on enough stitches for a swatch 5 to 6 inches wide. At 16 stitches to 4 inches, that is 24 stitches.
- Work 5 to 6 inches in the stitch the pattern gives for its gauge, then bind off loosely.
- Lay it flat without stretching. Count the stitches and rows across 4 inches, starting a few stitches in from the edge, where stitches can be uneven.
- If you will block the finished piece, block the swatch the same way and measure again. That second measurement is your gauge.
Gauge can change after washing. One measured swatch went from 20 to 16 stitches per 4 inches after blocking.
How the conversion works
Size is the stitch count times 4 inches, divided by the stitches per 4 inches.
Say the pattern gauge is 20 stitches per 4 inches, yours is 18, and the pattern casts on 100 stitches. At the pattern gauge, 100 stitches are 100 × 4 ÷ 20 = 20 inches. At yours they are 100 × 4 ÷ 18 = 22.2 inches, 2.2 inches or 11% wider. To get 20 inches at your gauge, cast on 100 × 18 ÷ 20 = 90 stitches.
Rows work the same way with the row gauge. Many patterns give length in inches ("work until the piece measures 14 in"), and then row gauge matters less than stitch gauge. It matters when the pattern counts rows, or when a piece is worked sideways.
The cast-on comes out to the nearest whole stitch. If your stitch pattern repeats over 4 or 6 stitches, move to the nearest count that fits the repeat.
Change the needle or change the numbers
The usual fix is the needle or hook. Too many stitches per 4 inches means the stitches are small, so go up a size. Too few means they are large, so go down a size. Swatch again after each change.
Recalculating the cast-on works for a plain shape such as a scarf or a blanket. In a garment, every shaping count in the pattern would need the same change. That is why patterns ask you to match their gauge by changing the needle or hook size.
Typical gauge by yarn weight
These are the Craft Yarn Council's guideline ranges, the most common gauges for each weight category. Your pattern's gauge comes first.
| Yarn weight | Knit stitches per 4 in, stockinette | Crochet stitches per 4 in, single crochet |
|---|---|---|
| 0 Lace | 33–40 | 32–42 double crochet |
| 1 Super fine | 27–32 | 21–32 |
| 2 Fine | 23–26 | 16–20 |
| 3 Light | 21–24 | 12–17 |
| 4 Medium | 16–20 | 11–14 |
| 5 Bulky | 12–15 | 8–11 |
| 6 Super bulky | 7–11 | 7–9 |
| 7 Jumbo | 6 and fewer | 6 and fewer |
Lace weight is usually worked on larger needles and hooks for an open fabric, so its range is hard to pin down. The crochet column uses US terms: single crochet is UK double crochet. The needle and hook size chart gives the needle and hook sizes for each weight.
Next steps
To shape the piece once the cast-on is set, the increase and decrease calculator spaces the stitches evenly. The yarn calculator estimates yardage from your swatch.